Refinishing Old Hardwood Floors

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28.08.2024

Reading Time ~ 12 minutes

At Big Bro Hardwood, we’ve seen it all when it comes to worn hardwood floors—from floors that have weathered a century of family gatherings to those hiding under layers of old carpet, just waiting to be revived. Over the years, we’ve learned that floors tell their own story, and our job is to bring that story back to life. Here’s a glimpse into our process of transforming worn-out floors into stunning, timeless features in any home.

Bog Bro Hardwood before after work with old damaged hardwood floors

How to Restore Old Hardwood Floors

Preparation Phase

Before we dive into the hands-on work of refinishing, proper preparation is key to ensuring a smooth process and a stunning final result. When it comes to refinishing 100-year-old hardwood floors (well maybe a bit less), the preparation phase is especially crucial. These floors often have unique quirks that newer floors don’t, so taking the time to prep correctly can save you from potential headaches down the road.

Materials and Tools Needed

  • Drum sander, edge sander, orbital sander.
  • Various grits (36, 60, 80, 120).
  • Wood Filler. For cracks and gaps.
  • A powerful one, ideally with a HEPA filter.
  • Tack Cloths. For dust removal.
  • Protective Gear. Dust masks, ear protection, and safety glasses.
  • Plastic Sheeting and Painter’s Tape. To seal off other rooms.
  • Buffer for Floors. For the final sanding.
  • Putty Knife. For applying wood filler.
  • Hammer and Nail Set. For sinking any protruding nails.
  • Stain and Polyurethane. If you plan on staining and sealing the floors (which is highly recommended).

Old hardwood floors are full of character, but they also come with their own set of challenges. Here’s what to keep in mind:

  1. Uneven Surfaces. Aged floors may have settled over time, creating dips and uneven spots. This means you might need to sand more carefully or even consider leveling the floor before starting.
  2. Hidden Nails and Staples. Over time, nails can loosen or even pop out slightly. It’s important to walk the floors first and hammer down any protruding nails or staples. Failing to do so can damage your sanding equipment.
  3. Multiple Layers of Finish. Aged floors might have several layers of finish that can be tough to remove. Be prepared for more intense sanding sessions.

Room Preparation

This is the first step. Remove all furniture, rugs, and any other items. Don’t forget to take down pictures and cover vents — dust will get everywhere.

A room with old hardwood on the floor

Dust from sanding can be pervasive. Use plastic sheeting and painter’s tape to seal off doorways and other openings. If you have an HVAC system, it’s a good idea to turn it off during sanding to avoid spreading dust throughout the house.

Before starting, take a close look at the floor. Check for any loose boards, deep gouges, or areas that might need special attention. Fix any issues now rather than later.

Before you start sanding, mark any deep scratches or areas with a pencil that might need extra attention. This way, you won’t miss them once you get into the flow of sanding.

Sanding old wood floors can kick up a lot of dust, including potentially harmful particles from previous finishes. Always wear a good-quality dust mask, safety glasses, and ear protection.

If your floors were finished before 1978, there’s a chance they could contain lead-based finishes. Testing is quick, and if you find lead, consider bringing in a professional for the sanding phase.

Old hardwood floors restoration also includes fixing really damaged parts. Before you start sanding and staining, you’ll want to take care of any necessary repairs of the hardwood. If you’ve got a plank that’s cracked, splintered, or just too worn, replacing it is the way to go. Don’t worry if the new plank looks a little different. It’ll blend in once the entire floor is sanded and refinished.

Repair

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You should also fix any loose or squeaky boards. A finishing nail driven into the subfloor usually does the trick, just be sure to countersink the nail so it doesn’t interfere with sanding. Small cracks and gaps will be fixed later on.

Getting these repairs done before refinishing sets you up for success, ensuring that when you sand and stain, you’re working with a solid, even surface.

Really old hardwood floor with stains on it

Initial Sanding

Here comes the next step. The first pass of sanding is where the magic begins. This step is all about removing the previous finish, leveling the surface, and revealing the beautiful wood hiding underneath. But with worn wooden floors (especially those 100-year-old ones!), you need to approach this process with care to avoid causing any damage.

Room prepared for floor refinishing

For old hardwood flooring, we recommend starting with a drum sander. This powerful tool is ideal for removing layers of finish and leveling out uneven surfaces. However, it requires a steady hand—drum sanders can easily gouge the floors if not used correctly.

Always start with a coarser grit sandpaper, like 36-grit, to tackle the previous layer and any imperfections. As you progress, move to finer grits for a smoother finish.

  • Begin in a corner of the room and work your way methodically across the floor. Keep the sander moving at all times — stopping in one spot can create deep scratches or gouges that are difficult to fix.
  • Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. This helps prevent scratches and ensures a smoother finish.
  • Aged floors often have intricate edges or tight corners that a drum sander can’t reach. For these areas, switch to an edge sander or a hand-held orbital sander. Take your time here; the details make all the difference.
  • After each pass with the sander, vacuum up the dust and inspect the floor. Look for any remaining layers or uneven spots that need extra attention. It’s better to address these now before moving on to finer grits.

Drum sander used for sanding old hardwood

When working on old hardwood floors, a couple of challenges commonly arise that require special attention. One of them is dealing with wood variations. It’s not uncommon for different types of wood to be mixed within a single floor, especially in older homes. These different woods can sand at different rates due to their varying hardness. As you sand, pay close attention to these differences, adjusting your technique to avoid over-sanding the softer wood types.

To achieve a seamless finish, smooth transitions between different grits of sandpaper are important. When moving from one grit to the next, overlap your sanding paths slightly. This overlap helps create a consistent surface without any noticeable ridges or lines, resulting in a smooth and even surface that highlights the wood’s natural beauty.

And edge sander for professional work

Finally, controlling dust is a critical part of the sanding process. Sanding hardwood floors generates a significant amount of dust, which can be a nuisance and affect the quality of the finish. Use a sander equipped with a dust collection system and vacuum the area frequently during the process. Now going to the next step!

Cleaning, Filling, and Final Sanding

After the initial sanding, you’ll find a significant amount of dust covering the floor. This dust needs to be completely removed before moving on to filling and final sanding.

Start by vacuuming the floors with a high-powered vacuum, ideally one equipped with a HEPA filter to capture even the finest particles. Pay special attention to corners and edges, where dust tends to accumulate. After vacuuming, use tack cloths to wipe down the floors and remove any remaining dust.

Filling Gaps and Cracks

Aged hardwood floors often have gaps between the boards or cracks that have developed over time. These imperfections add character, but they also need to be addressed to ensure a smooth, stable surface. This is a really important step.

For larger gaps between boards, use a flexible, wood-colored filler. This filler moves with the wood as it expands and contracts, reducing the risk of future cracks. Apply the filler with a putty knife, pressing it firmly into the gaps. Once the filler is in place, smooth it out with the flat edge of the knife to ensure it’s level with the surrounding wood.

It’s important to allow the filler to dry completely before sanding it down.

With the gaps filled and the floors cleaned, it’s time for the final sanding. This step smooths out the filler and prepares the floors for staining and finishing.

For the final sanding, use an orbital sander with a fine-grit sandpaper (around 120-grit). The orbital sander is less aggressive than the drum sander and is perfect for achieving a smooth, even surface. Sand the entire floor, paying particular attention to the areas where you applied filler. The goal is to create a seamless transition between the filler and the wood, so everything blends together beautifully.

After sanding, vacuum and wipe down the floor with tack cloths one last time. This ensures that the floor is completely free of dust and ready for finishing.

Staining Your Floors

When it comes to old hardwood floors, staining isn’t just about adding color — it’s about enhancing the natural beauty of wood that’s already got a rich history. Older floors often have more variation in wood tone due to years of use and exposure, and staining helps to unify these tones, bringing out the character while hiding imperfections. Plus, it provides an additional layer of protection, making sure those gorgeous grains last even longer. This step is optional but we highly recommend doing it.

Old hardwood floors have a lot of stories to tell, and staining helps highlight those stories in the best way possible. Because these floors have been through a lot — foot traffic, sunlight, and possibly even some water damage — the wood can appear uneven or washed out. Staining adds depth and richness, bringing the wood back to life. It’s like giving the floor a makeover that not only refreshes its appearance but also adds a layer of protection against future wear and tear.

If your floors have a lot of variation in the wood species or have been patched in places, staining can help create a more uniform look, tying all the different sections together.

Staining old hardwood in a big room

How to Stain Your Floors Step-by-Step

  1. Choose Your Stain. Start by choosing a hardwood stain color that complements the rest of your space. Test a small, hidden area first to see how the wood absorbs the stain and to make sure you like the color.
  2. Apply the Stain. Use a clean, lint-free cloth or a foam applicator to apply the stain. Work in small sections, applying the stain evenly and following the direction of the wood grain. Be sure to wipe off any excess stain with a clean cloth — this prevents blotches and ensures an even finish.
  3. Let it Set. Allow the stain to penetrate the wood for the period recommended by the manufacturer—this is usually anywhere from a few minutes to up to 15 minutes depending on how dark you want the finish. Then, wipe away any excess stain to avoid streaks or uneven coloration.
  4. Repeat if Necessary. If you want a deeper color, you can apply a second coat after the first one dries. Just be sure to follow the same process, and always wipe off the excess.
  5. Dry Time. After staining, let the floor dry completely before moving on to sealing. This could take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the humidity and temperature.

Remember that wood is a natural material, so each board may absorb stain differently. That’s part of the charm of older floors — embrace the unique character that comes through!

How to Refinish Old Hardwood Floors

After all the hard work of sanding and staining, the final finish is what really brings your old hardwood floors to life. It’s the protective layer that adds sheen, depth, and durability, ensuring your floors can stand up to everyday wear while looking absolutely stunning. But with so many types of finishes available, how do you choose the right one for your floors?

The two most common types are oil-based polyurethane and water-based polyurethane, each with its own set of benefits.

Oil-based polyurethane is a classic choice for many homeowners, especially for older floors. It gives the wood a warm, amber glow that deepens over time, adding richness to the natural grain. Oil-based finishes are also incredibly durable, standing up well to heavy traffic and wear. However, they take longer to dry between coats and can emit strong fumes, so make sure you have good ventilation.

Water-based polyurethane is a great modern alternative. It dries much faster than oil-based finishes, which means you can apply multiple coats in a shorter duration frame. It also has a lower VOC content, meaning fewer fumes, making it a more environmentally friendly option. Water-based finishes are clear and don’t yellow over time, which is perfect if you want to maintain the natural color of the wood. They are now just as durable as oil-based options, thanks to advanced production technology.

For older floors with a lot of character, an oil-based finish can help bring out the warmth and depth in the wood, while a water-based option is great if you’re looking for a more contemporary, natural look.

Applying the finishing coat is where your floors truly come to life, so it’s worth taking your time to get it right. Start by making sure the floor is absolutely clean — any dust left on the surface can get trapped under the finish and ruin the smoothness.

Using a high-quality brush or a foam applicator, start applying the finish in long, even strokes, following the direction of the wood grain. The key here is to apply a thin, even coat. It’s tempting to lay it on thick, but that can lead to bubbles, streaks, and uneven drying. Work in small sections and keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks.

Applying finish to hardwood floors

Once you’ve applied the first coat, it’s time to let it dry. With oil-based finishes, you’ll need to wait about 24 hours before you can lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper (usually 220-grit). This light sanding helps remove any imperfections and prepares the surface for the next coat. Water-based finishes dry much faster, so you might be able to sand and recoat within just a few hours.

After sanding, be sure to vacuum and wipe down the floor with a tack cloth to remove all the dust before applying the next coat. You’ll want to apply at least three coats to ensure a durable, long-lasting surface, with light sanding between each coat. If you’re using oil-based polyurethane, you might need four coats, especially in high-traffic areas.

After the last coat is applied, let the floor cure for a few days before moving the furniture back in.

Room Setup: Moving Everything Back In

Congratulations! Your floors are looking stunning, and now it’s time to get your space back in order. But before you start hauling furniture back in, let’s talk about how to do it right to keep those floors looking pristine.

First things first — patience. After applying the final coat of finish, it’s important to let the floors cure fully before moving anything back in. While the surface might feel dry to the touch after a couple of days, the finish underneath is still hardening. Ideally, you should wait at least 7 days before placing furniture back on the floors.

If you absolutely must move furniture in sooner, consider placing down thick, protective blankets or plywood sheets to spread out the weight and protect the floor.

When it’s finally time to move everything back in, be extra careful with your floors. Avoid dragging furniture across the surface—this is a surefire way to end up with scratches. Instead, lift and carry items whenever possible. For heavier pieces, use furniture sliders or lift straps to make the job easier on both you and the floor.

Felt pads are your floor’s best friend. Attach them to the bottom of all your furniture, especially chairs and tables that will be moved often. These pads will help prevent scratches and scuffs as the furniture shifts over time.

Now that your hardwood floors are looking their best, a little maintenance will go a long way in keeping them that way. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will help prevent dirt and grit from scratching the surface. When cleaning, use a soft, dry mop or a damp mop — just be careful not to over-saturate the wood with water, as it can cause damage over time.

New life of old hardwood

Area rugs can add both style and protection. Place them in high-traffic areas like entryways and under furniture. Not only do they look great, but they also act as a buffer between the floor and anything that might scratch or damage it.

Duration Breakdown

Old wood floor restoration is a labor of love, and while it’s incredibly rewarding, it’s also time-consuming. Here’s a realistic breakdown of how long each step should take:

  • Preparation. 1-2 days. This includes gathering materials, room preparation, and inspecting the floor for any issues.
  • Sanding, Cleaning, and Filling. 1-2 days. Depending on the condition of the floor, this could take longer if there’s a lot of old finish or deep scratches. Thorough cleaning, filling gaps, and cracks, and ensuring the floor is dust-free and then — the final sanding.
  • Staining. 1 day. Applying the stain and allowing it to dry completely.
  • Finishing. 3-4 days. This includes applying multiple coats of finish with a proper drying period in between.

Total Duration: 6-9 days, depending on the condition of the floors, room size and how meticulous you want to be.

Refinished old hardwood floor by Big Bro Hardwood

DIY vs. Hiring a Professional

If you’re tackling this project yourself, you’re looking at a solid week or more of work. While it’s a great DIY project, it’s important to consider the time commitment and the potential for unexpected challenges, especially with older floors.

Hiring a professional, like Big Bro Hardwood, significantly cuts down the period and stress involved. We bring years of experience and expertise to the table, especially with tricky, aged floors that might need extra care. Professionals can often complete the job faster, delivering a flawless finish that can be hard to achieve on your own.

Bog Bro Hardwood before after work with old damaged hardwood floors

If your floors have seen better days and you’re unsure about tackling the project yourself, we can step in to ensure your floors look perfect, bringing out their true beauty with a finish that lasts for years.

Refinish

Your old flooring needs a fresh look? Big Bro Hardwood is here to help you bring them back to life!
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Conclusion

Thank you for taking the time to read our guide on how to repair and refinish old wood floors. We did our best to cover the topic! Hope this guide has provided you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle your project and bring new life to your beautiful floors.

Whether you choose to go the DIY route or call in the pros for hardwood floor refinishing services, we’re here to help you with every step of the way. Your old hardwood floors are a treasure, and with the right care, they can continue to be a stunning feature in your home for years to come.

Faq

What should I do if my hardwood floor starts to show signs of wear after a few years?

If this happens and your floor starts showing signs of wear after a few years, such as minor scratches or dullness, you can often refresh it with a simple buffing and recoating process. This involves lightly sanding the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper and applying a new coat of polyurethane. For deeper scratches or damage, spot repairs with wood filler and touch-up stain may be necessary. If the wear is extensive, you might consider a full refinishing process again. If your flooring had great imperfections or was damaged, you need to repair it first.

What is better for worn hardwood floors – polyurethane or tung oil?

It depends on what you’re looking for in a finish. Polyurethane offers superior durability for the floors and long-lasting protection, making it ideal for high-traffic areas or floors that need to withstand heavy wear and tear. It creates a hard, glossy surface and requires minimal maintenance once applied. On the other hand, tung oil provides a more natural, matte finish of the floors that enhances the wood’s texture and grain. Oil is great for those who want to preserve the authentic, aged look of the wood, but it does require more frequent maintenance and reapplication.

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