Refinishing Old Hardwood Floors
28.08.2024
Reading Time ~ 16 minutes
Table of Contents
1. How to Restore Old Hardwood Floors
2. Room Preparation
3. Initial Sanding
4. Cleaning, Filling, and Final Phase
5. Staining Your Floors
6. How to Refinish Old Floors
7. Room Setup: Moving Everything Back In
8. Duration Breakdown
9. DIY vs. Hiring a Professional
At Big Bro Hardwood, we’ve seen it all when it comes to worn hardwood floors — from those that have weathered a century of family gatherings to those hiding under layers of old carpet, just waiting to be revived. Over the years, we’ve learned that each floor tells its own story, and our job is to bring that story back to life.
Here’s a glimpse into our process of transforming a worn-out old floor into a stunning, timeless feature in any house. We will explain in detail how to refinish hardwood floors!
Refinishing Old Hardwood Floors
Refinish Hardwood Floors: Preparation Phase
Before we dive into the hands-on work of refinishing hardwood floors, proper preparation is key to ensuring a smooth process and a stunning final result. When it comes to refinishing 100-year-old hardwood floors (well maybe a bit less), the preparation phase is especially crucial. These often have unique quirks that newer floors don’t, so taking the time to prep correctly can save you from potential headaches down the road.
Materials and Tools Needed to Refinish Hardwood Floors
- Drum sander, edge sander, orbital sander, or belt sander.
- Various grits (36, 60, 80, 120).
- Wood Filler. For cracks and gaps.
- A powerful one, ideally with a HEPA filter.
- Tack Cloth. For dust removal.
- Protective Gear. A dust mask, ear protection, and safety glasses.
- Plastic Sheeting and Painter’s Tape. To seal off other rooms.
- Buffer. For the final sanding.
- Putty Knife. For applying wood filler.
- Hammer and Nail Set. For sinking any protruding nails.
- Stain and Polyurethane. If you plan on staining and sealing (which is highly recommended).
- Sanding Pads.
Old wood floors are full of character, but they also come with their own set of challenges. Here’s what to keep in mind when you decide to refinish hardwood floors:
- Uneven Surfaces. The old flooring can have dips and uneven spots. This means you might need to sand more carefully or even consider leveling the floor before starting.
- Hidden Nails and Staples. Over time, nails can loosen and nail heads can pop out slightly. It’s important to walk the floors first and hammer down any protruding nails or staples. Failing to do so can damage your sanding equipment.
- Multiple Layers of Finish. Aged surfaces might have several layers of existing finish that can be tough to remove. Be prepared for more intense sanding sessions to also remove stains.
Old Hardwood Floor Refinishing: Room Preparation
This is the first step. Remove all furniture, rugs, and any other items. Don’t forget to take down pictures and cover vents — dust will get everywhere.
Dust from sanding can be pervasive. Use plastic sheeting and painter’s tape to seal off doorways and other openings. If you have an HVAC system, it’s a good idea to turn it off during sanding to avoid spreading dust throughout the house.
You also need to remove baseboards before you refinish hardwood floors.
Before starting, take a close look at the floor. Check for any loose boards, deep gouges, or areas that might need special attention. Fix any issues now rather than later.
Before you start sanding, mark any deep scratches or areas with a pencil that might need extra attention. This way, you won’t miss them once you get into the flow of sanding.
Sanding old wood floors can kick up a lot of dirt, including potentially harmful particles from previous finishes. Always wear a good-quality dust mask, safety glasses, and ear protection.
If your floors were finished before 1978, there’s a chance they could contain lead-based finishes. Testing is quick, and if you find lead, consider bringing in a professional for the sanding phase.
Old hardwood floor restoration also includes fixing really damaged parts. Before you start sanding and staining, you’ll want to take care of any necessary repairs of the hardwood. If you’ve got a plank that’s cracked, splintered, or just too worn, replacing it is the way to go. Don’t worry if the new plank looks a little different. It’ll blend in once the entire floor is sanded and refinished.
Repair
You should also fix any loose or squeaky boards. A finishing nail driven into the subfloor usually does the trick, just be sure to countersink the nail so it doesn’t interfere with sanding. Small cracks and gaps will be fixed later on.
Getting these repairs done before refinishing hardwood floors sets you up for success, ensuring that when you sand and stain, you’re working with a solid, even hardwood. If your floor is greatly damaged, you might actually consider replacing hardwood floors.
Initial Sanding
Here comes the next step. The first pass of sanding is where the magic begins. This step is all about removing the previous finish, leveling the hardwood, and revealing the beautiful hardwood hiding underneath. But with worn wooden floors (especially those 100-year-old ones!), you need to approach this process with care to avoid causing any damage.
For old hardwood flooring, we recommend starting with a drum sander. This powerful tool is ideal for removing layers of finish and leveling out uneven surfaces. However, it requires a steady hand—drum sanders can easily gouge the hardwood floors if not used correctly.
Always start with a coarser grit sandpaper, like 36-grit, to tackle the previous layer and any imperfections. As you progress, move to finer grits for a smoother finish.
- Begin in a corner of the room and work your way methodically across the floor. Keep the sander moving at all times — stopping in one spot can create deep scratches or gouges that are difficult to fix.
- Always sand in the direction of the hardwood grain. This helps prevent scratches and ensures a smoother finish.
- Aged hardwood floors often have intricate edges or tight corners that a drum sander can’t reach. For these areas, switch to an edge sander or a hand-held orbital sander. Take your time here; the details make all the difference with the edges.
- After each pass with the sander, vacuum and inspect the floor. Look for any remaining layers or uneven spots that need extra attention. It’s better to address these now before moving on to finer grits.
When working on timeworn wood floors, a couple of challenges commonly arise that require special attention. One of them is dealing with wood variations. It’s not uncommon for different types of wood to be mixed within a single floor, especially in older homes. These different woods can sand at different rates due to their varying hardness. As you sand, pay close attention to these differences, adjusting your technique to avoid over-sanding the softer wood types.
To achieve a seamless finish, smooth transitions between different grits of sandpaper are important. When moving from one grit to the next, overlap your sanding paths slightly. This overlap helps create a consistent surface without any noticeable ridges or lines.
Finally, controlling dust is a critical part of the process. Sanding hardwood floors generates a significant amount of dust, which can be a nuisance and affect the quality of the finish. Use a sander equipped with a dust collection system and vacuum the area frequently during the process. Now going to the next step!
Cleaning, Filling, and Final Sanding
Next, you’ll find a significant amount of dust covering the floor. This needs to be completely removed before moving on.
Start by vacuuming the hardwood floors with a high-powered vacuum, ideally one that is equipped with a HEPA filter to capture even the finest particles. Pay special attention to corners and edges, where dust tends to accumulate. After vacuuming, use tack cloths to wipe down the wood floors and remove any remaining dirt.
Filling Gaps and Cracks Before You Refinish Hardwood Floors
Aged hardwood floors often have gaps between the boards or cracks that have developed over time. These imperfections add character, but they also need to be addressed to ensure a smooth, stable floor. This is a really important step.
For larger gaps between boards, use a flexible, wood-colored filler. This filler moves with the wood as it expands and contracts, reducing the risk of future cracks. Apply the filler with a putty knife, pressing it firmly into the gaps. Once the filler is in place, smooth it out with the flat edge of the knife to ensure it’s level with the surrounding wood.
It’s important to allow the filler to dry completely before sanding it down.
With the gaps filled and everything cleaned, it’s time to sand one more time. This step smooths out the filler and prepares for staining and finishing.
Use an orbital sander with a fine-grit sandpaper (around 120-grit). The orbital sander is less aggressive than the drum sander and is perfect for achieving a smooth, even floor. Sand the entire floor, paying particular attention to the areas where you applied filler. You can also use a belt sander if you want.
The goal is to create a seamless transition between the filler and the wood, so everything blends together beautifully.
After all this, vacuum the floor and walls with tack cloths one last time. This ensures that the floor is completely free of dust and ready for finishing.
Staining Your Floors
When it comes to an aged hardwood floor, staining isn’t just about adding color — it’s about enhancing the natural beauty of wood that’s already got a rich history. Older surfaces often have more variation in raw wood tone due to years of use and exposure, and staining helps to unify these tones, bringing out the character while hiding imperfections.
Plus, it provides an additional layer of protection, making sure those gorgeous grains last even longer. This step is optional but we highly recommend doing it.
Old hardwood floors have a lot of stories to tell, and staining helps highlight those stories in the best way possible. Because these bare wood floors have been through a lot — foot traffic, sunlight, and possibly even some water damage (especially near a kitchen sink) — the wood can appear uneven or washed out. Even a few drops of water can cause more damage.
Staining adds depth and richness, bringing the wood back to life. It’s like giving the floor a makeover that not only refreshes its appearance but also adds a layer of protection against future wear and tear.
If your floor has a lot of variation in the wood species or has been patched in places, staining can help create a more uniform look, tying all the different sections together.
How to Stain Your Floor: a Step-by-Step Guide
- Choose Your Stain. Start by choosing a hardwood stain color that complements the rest of your space. Test a small, hidden area first to see how the hardwood absorbs the stain and to make sure you like the color.
- Apply the Stain. Use a clean, lint-free cloth or a foam applicator to apply the stain. Work in small sections, applying the stain evenly and following the direction of the grain. Be sure to wipe off any excess stain with a clean cloth — this prevents blotches and ensures an even finish.
- Let it Set. Allow the stain to penetrate the hardwood for the period recommended by the manufacturer—this is usually anywhere from a few minutes to up to 15 minutes depending on how dark you want the finish. Then, wipe away any excess stain to avoid streaks or uneven coloration.
- Repeat if Necessary. If you want a deeper color, you can apply a second coat after the first one dries. Just be sure to follow the same process, and always wipe off the excess.
- Dry Time. After everything is done, do not touch the floor until the stain dries completely. This can take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the humidity and temperature.
Remember that hardwood is a natural material, so each board may absorb stain differently. That’s part of the charm of old floors — embrace the unique character that comes through!
How to Refinish Old Hardwood Floors
After all the hard work, the final finish is what really brings your aged wood floors to life. It’s the protective layer that adds sheen, depth, and durability, ensuring your flooring can stand up to everyday wear while looking absolutely stunning. But with so many types of finishes available, how do you choose the right one for your flooring?
The two most common types are oil-based polyurethane and water-based polyurethane, each with its own set of benefits.
Oil-based polyurethane is a classic choice for many homeowners, especially for older flooring. It gives the hardwood a warm, amber glow that deepens over time, adding richness to the natural grain. Oil finishes are also incredibly durable, standing up well to heavy traffic and wear. However, they take longer to dry between coats and can emit strong fumes, so make sure you have good ventilation.
Water-based polyurethane is a great modern alternative. It dries much faster than oil-based finishes, which means you can apply multiple thin coats in a shorter duration frame. It also has a lower VOC content, meaning fewer fumes, making it a more environmentally friendly option. Can be gloss, semi-gloss or more matte. You can refinish the surface with a gloss, semi-gloss, or matte finish.
Water-based finishes are clear and don’t yellow over time, which is perfect if you want to maintain the natural color of the hardwood. They are now just as durable as oil-based options, thanks to advanced production technology.
For an older floor with a lot of character, an oil-based finish can help bring out the warmth and depth in the hardwood, while a water-based option is great if you’re looking for a more contemporary, natural look.
Applying the finishing coating is where your floors truly come to life, so it’s worth taking your time to get it right. Start by making sure the floor is absolutely clean — any dust left can get trapped under the desired finish and ruin the smoothness.
Using a high-quality brush or a foam applicator, start applying the finish in long, even strokes, following the direction of the hardwood grain. The key here is to apply a thin, even, and clear coat and pay attention to the edges. It’s tempting to lay it on thick and make it all covered, but that can lead to bubbles, streaks, and uneven drying. Work in small sections and keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks until everything is covered.
Once you’ve applied the first poly coat, it’s time to let it dry. With oil-based finishes, you’ll need to wait about 24 hours before you can lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper (usually 220-grit). This light process helps remove any imperfections and prepares the surface for the next coat. Water-based finishes dry much faster, so you might be able to sand and recoat within just a few hours.
After that, be sure to vacuum and wipe down the floor and walls with a tack cloth to remove all the dust before applying the next coat. You’ll want to apply at least three coats to ensure a durable, long-lasting surface, with light buffing between each coat. If you’re using oil-based polyurethane, you might need four coats, especially in high-traffic areas.
After the last coat is applied, let the floor fully cure for a few days before reinstalling the baseboards moving the furniture back in.
Room Setup: Moving Everything Back In
Congratulations! Your new floors are looking stunning, and now it’s time to get your space back in order. But before you start hauling everything back in, let’s talk about how to do it right to keep everything looking pristine.
First things first — patience. After applying the final coat of finish, it’s important to let the floors cure fully before moving anything back in. While the surface might feel dry to the touch after a couple of days, the finish underneath is still hardening. Ideally, you should wait at least 7 days before placing furniture back on the floor.
If you absolutely must move things in sooner, consider placing down thick, protective blankets or plywood sheets to spread out the weight and protect the floor.
When it’s finally time to move everything back in, be extra careful with your floor. Avoid dragging anything across the surface — this is a surefire way to cause damage. Instead, lift and carry items whenever possible. For heavier pieces, use furniture sliders or lift straps to make the job easier on both you and the floor.
Felt pads are your floor’s best friend. Attach them to the bottom of all your furniture, especially chairs and tables that will be moved often. These pads will help prevent damage.
Now that your hardwood floors are looking their best, a little maintenance will go a long way in keeping them that way. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will help prevent dirt and grit from scratching the surface. When cleaning, use a soft, dry mop or a damp mop — just be careful not to over-saturate the bare wood with water, as it can cause damage over time.
Area rugs can add both style and protection. Place them in high-traffic areas like entryways and under furniture. Not only do they look great, but they also act as a buffer between the floor and anything that might scratch or damage it. Now that you are all done and your flooring is refinished it’s time to rest and read our duration breakdown!
Duration Breakdown
Old wood floor restoration is a labor of love, and while it’s incredibly rewarding, it’s also time-consuming. Here’s a realistic breakdown of how long each step of hardwood floor refinishing should take:
- Preparation. 1-2 days. This includes gathering materials, room preparation, and inspecting the floor for any issues.
- Sand, Clean, and Fill. 1-2 days. Depending on the condition of the floor, this could take longer if there’s a lot of old finish or deep scratches. Thorough cleaning, filling gaps, and cracks, and ensuring the floor is dust-free.
- Staining. 1 day. Applying the stain and allowing it to dry completely.
- Finishing. 3-4 days. This includes applying multiple coats of finish with a proper drying time in between (might want to even dry overnight).
Total Duration: 6-9 days, depending on the condition of the floor, room size, and how meticulous you want to be.
DIY vs. Hiring a Professional for Refinishing Hardwood Floors
If you’re tackling this refinishing project yourself, you’re looking at a solid week or more of work. While it’s a great DIY project, it’s important to consider the time commitment and the potential for unexpected challenges, especially with older floors.
Hiring a professional, like Big Bro Hardwood, significantly cuts down the period and stress involved. We bring years of experience and expertise to the table with such labor-intensive projects. Professionals can often complete the job faster, delivering a flawless finish that can be hard to achieve on your own.
If your hardwood floors have seen better days and you’re unsure about tackling the project yourself, we can step in to ensure your hardwood floors look perfect, bringing out their true beauty with a finish that lasts for years.
Refinish
Final Thoughts About Refinishing
Thank you for taking the time to read our guide on how to repair and refinish old wood floors. We did our best to cover the topic! Hope this guide has provided you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle your project and bring new life to your beautiful floors.
Whether you choose to go the DIY route or call in the pros for hardwood floor refinishing services, we’re here to help you with every step of the way. Your hardwood floors are a treasure, and with the right care, they can continue to be a stunning feature in your house for years to come.
frequently asked questions
What should I do if my hardwood floor starts to show signs of wear after a few years?
If this happens and your floor in one room starts showing signs of wear after a few years, such as minor scratches or dullness, you can often refresh it with a simple buffing and recoating process. This involves lightly buffing the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper and applying a new coat of polyurethane.
For deeper scratches or damage, spot repairs with wood filler and touch-up stain may be necessary. If the wear is extensive, you might consider refinishing floors again from the start. If your flooring had great imperfections or was damaged before, you need to repair it first.
What is better for worn hardwood floors – polyurethane or tung oil?
It depends on what you’re looking for in a finish. Polyurethane offers superior durability for hardwood floors and long-lasting protection, making it ideal for high-traffic areas or flooring that needs to withstand heavy wear and tear.
On the other hand, tung oil provides a more natural, matte finish to the hardwood floors that enhance the texture and grain. Oil is great for those who want to preserve the authentic, aged look, but it does require more frequent maintenance and reapplication.
Should I replace hardwood floors if they are too damaged?
If the damage is mostly cosmetic, such as scratches or surface wear, you can often refinish hardwood floors to restore their appearance. However, for deep structural issues, warping, or extensive water damage, you might want to replace hardwood floors.
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