How to Install Engineered Hardwood Floors on Concrete

Engineered hardwood flooring has become a go-to choice for many homeowners, combining beauty with durability. But when it comes to installing it over concrete, the process might seem a bit tricky. Don’t worry, though! Based on our experience, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or just exploring your options, this guide will help you achieve the perfect installation with confidence.

Understanding Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Engineered hardwood flooring is designed to offer the timeless appeal of solid wood while providing greater stability and moisture resistance. This is especially important when installing engineered hardwood on concrete, which can be prone to moisture issues. Concrete, however, has its own benefits—it’s sturdy, durable, and provides a solid foundation for your flooring. When paired with the right underlayment for engineered hardwood on concrete, it creates a stable, long-lasting surface that’s perfect for both residential and commercial spaces.

• Moisture Resistance. Unlike solid hardwood installation, engineered hardwood gets along with humidity better.
• Stability. The multi-layer construction resists warping and cupping, even in environments with fluctuating temperatures and humidity levels.
• Versatility. Engineered hardwood can be installed over various subfloors and supports multiple methods like glue-down, floating, or nail-down.
• Aesthetic Appeal. It offers the same beautiful finish as solid hardwood, with a wide range of wood species, finishes, and textures to choose from.
• Easy Manageble. Is often easy to install, especially with floating methods.

Preparing the Concrete Subfloor

Before you start installing engineered hardwood on concrete, it’s crucial to ensure that the subfloor is properly prepared. This step is key to a successful project, as it helps prevent issues like water damage, uneven flooring, and poor adhesion. Let’s walk through everything you need to do to get your concrete subfloor ready.

1. Assessing the Concrete Subfloor

The first step is to assess the condition of your subfloor thoroughly. This means checking for cracks, dips, and bumps that could affect the work. You’ll want to repair any significant cracks and ensure the surface is as level as possible.

• Small hairline cracks may not be a major concern, but larger cracks should be filled with a patching compound. This prevents the cracks from expanding and causing issues with your flooring.
• Use a straight edge or a laser level to check for any uneven areas. If you find dips or high spots, you’ll need to address them before moving forward. A self-leveling compound can be applied to low areas, while high spots may require grinding.

2. Moisture Testing

Concrete is porous, meaning it can absorb and hold moisture. This can be problematic for engineered hardwood flooring, as excess moisture can lead to warping, cupping, or even mold growth. That’s why moisture testing is an essential part of preparing the subfloor.

Use a reliable moisture meter to check the levels in your concrete. The most common methods include the calcium chloride test and the relative humidity (RH) test. According to industry standards, the concrete should have a moisture content of no more than 4% before laying engineered hardwood flooring on concrete.

If your floor has high moisture levels, you’ll need to address this before proceeding.

This might involve applying a moisture barrier or using a specific adhesive designed to handle higher moisture levels. Products like LiquiDam can be particularly effective in such cases.

3. Cleaning the Surface

Before you start the process, your subfloor needs to be spotless. Any dirt, dust, or debris can interfere with the adhesive or the underlayment, leading to poor adhesion or an uneven surface.

Begin by sweeping and vacuuming the entire area to remove loose debris. You might consider using a damp mop, but ensure the floor is completely dry before moving on.

If the concrete has any paint, oil, or old adhesive residue, these must be removed. These contaminants can prevent the new adhesive from bonding properly. A cleaner or grinder can help you achieve a clean, bare surface.

4. Addressing Moisture Barriers and Underlayment

Once your subfloor is clean, level, and dry, it’s time to think about barriers and underlayment. These components are crucial for protecting your new flooring from any residual water and ensuring a smooth, comfortable surface underfoot.

If you’re using a glue-down method for hardwood, you’ll likely need to apply a humidity barrier directly to the concrete. This could be a liquid membrane or a sheet of polyethylene, depending on the product you’re using.

If you’re opting for a floating installation, you’ll need an appropriate underlayment. The best underlayment for engineered hardwood over concrete should include a built-in moisture barrier. Foam underlayments with vapor barriers are popular choices because they offer sound insulation as well as moisture protection.

Choosing the Right Method

Now it’s time to choose the right method. The method you select will affect not only the difficulty of the installation but also the performance and longevity of your floor.

Glue-Down Method

The glue-down engineered hardwood on concrete method involves directly adhering the flooring to the concrete subfloor using a strong adhesive. This is a popular choice for concrete due to its stability and permanence.

Benefits:

• Stability. Once glued down, the flooring is highly stable and secure, with little to no movement.
• Durability. The adhesive acts as an additional water barrier, which can be beneficial in preventing any related issues.
• Sound Reduction. The direct bond to the concrete can help reduce sound transmission, making your floors quieter to walk on.

Challenges:

• Difficulty Level. This method is more labor-intensive and requires careful preparation and precision. Ensuring even adhesive coverage is crucial to prevent hollow spots.
• Curing Time. After the job is done, the adhesive needs time to cure, so the room should be kept free of heavy traffic during this period.

This method is highly recommended for concrete installations, provided that you are comfortable with the extra effort and time required.

Floating Floor Method

The floating floor method involves laying the engineered hardwood over an underlayment without attaching it to the subfloor. The planks are either clicked together using a tongue-and-groove system or glued at the joints.

Benefits:

• Easy To Do. Floating floors are generally easier and faster to install compared to the glue-down method. They’re ideal for DIY enthusiasts.
• Flexibility. Since the flooring is not attached to the subfloor, it can easily be replaced or repaired if needed.
• Underlayment Options. You can choose an underlayment for engineered hardwood on concrete that includes a water barrier and sound insulation, adding comfort and protection.

Challenges:

• Less Stability. Floating floors can have a bit of movement, which might not be ideal in areas with heavy foot traffic or where furniture is frequently moved.
• Sound Transmission. While underlayment can help, floating floors may still transmit more sound compared to glue-down method.

This method is suitable for concrete subfloors, especially if you’re looking for an easier installation process. However, be mindful of the potential for minor movement in the flooring.

Nail-Down Method

The nail-down method involves securing the flooring planks by nailing them directly into the subfloor, a technique commonly used with wood subfloors. However, this approach is generally not recommended for this situation.

Concrete is too dense to be nailed into directly, making it impractical unless a plywood subfloor is installed first. This adds significant time, cost, and labor to the project. Additionally, the extra plywood layer increases the floor height, potentially causing issues with door clearance and transitions to other flooring types. For these reasons, we advise against using the nail-down method on these subfloors.

Pre-Installation Steps for Any Method

Before you begin the actual installation of your engineered hardwood flooring, there are several critical pre-installation steps that apply no matter which method you choose.

Acclimate the Flooring

One of the first steps is acclimating the flooring planks to the room where they will be installed. Engineered hardwood, like all wood products, expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. To minimize the risk of your flooring warping or developing gaps after installation, allow the pieces to acclimate to the room’s conditions for 48 to 72 hours. Keep the boxes of flooring unopened, and ensure the room’s climate is stable, mimicking the conditions the room will typically experience once the flooring is in use.

Plan the Layout

Before committing to any adhesive or fasteners, it’s essential to plan out the layout of your flooring. Dry-lay the planks across the room to determine the best arrangement. This helps you avoid small or awkward cuts at the edges of the room and ensures that the final layout is both aesthetically pleasing and functional.

When planning your layout, start by deciding on the direction of the planks. Running them parallel to the longest wall usually creates a more spacious feel. Stagger the end joints from row to row to avoid creating a repetitive pattern that could detract from the floor’s natural look.

Place spacers between the planks and the walls to maintain the necessary expansion gaps. These gaps are crucial because they allow the flooring to expand and contract without causing issues like buckling.

Use a measuring tape or laser to check if you aligned everything correctly.

Prepare the Tools and Materials

Having the right tools and materials on hand before you start can make the installation process much smoother. Ensure you have all necessary items such as saws, spacers, tape measures, a tapping block, and either adhesive or underlayment, depending on your method. Double-check the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific flooring and adhesive products to ensure you’re fully prepared.

Final Room Preparations

Before starting the installation, take a few last steps to prepare the room. Ensure the subfloor is dry and clean. Double-check the room’s temperature and humidity levels to ensure they are within the manufacturer’s recommended range.

Lay out all your tools and materials in an organized manner, so they’re easily accessible. This will save time and reduce stress as you work.

If your subfloor has radiant heating, make sure to turn it off 24 hours before installation. Keep it off during the process and for 24 hours afterward. This prevents it from curing too quickly or unevenly, which could affect the bond between the flooring and the subfloor.

Now you are fully prepared for installation!

Glue-Down Method

Here we will explain how to install engineered hardwood flooring on concrete using the glue-down method.

First of all, the list of tools:

When you’re choosing an adhesive for installing engineered hardwood on concrete slab, it’s important to focus on a few key qualities. First, make sure the adhesive is moisture-resistant, since concrete tends to hold moisture, and you don’t want that seeping into your engineered wood.

Urethane-based sealants are a great option for this. You’ll also want it to have a bit of flexibility to accommodate the natural expansion and contraction of the engineered hardwood as temperatures and humidity fluctuate. Finally, consider the cure time — whether you need something that sets quickly or if you have time for a slower cure. Just be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the best results.

Now that we have all the tools prepared, it’s time to start working!

Apply the Adhesive

When your subfloor is ready and your layout is planned, it’s time to start spreading the glue. You’ll want to work in small sections, typically about 2 to 3 feet wide, so that the bonding agent doesn’t start to dry out before you can get the planks down. Using a notched trowel, spread the glue evenly across the section. The size of the notches on your trowel is important; they should match what’s recommended for the product you’re using, which is usually indicated on the product packaging.

Only spread as much as you can cover with flooring within 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the product’s open time. This prevents it from curing too quickly and losing its stickiness.

 Start Laying the Rows

Begin placing your first row along the starting wall. Align them carefully with the chalk line you laid out earlier to ensure everything is straight.

To ensure a strong bond, aim for 90% adhesive transfer. This means that at least 90% of each plank’s surface should be in direct contact with the bonding agent. Press each plank firmly into the adhesive, making sure there are no gaps. As you continue, work your way across the room, always moving in the same direction and keeping the parts tight against each other.

If it seeps up between the planks, wipe it away immediately with a damp cloth. Once it dries, it can be difficult to remove without damaging the finish.

Straps are a must when installing unfinished engineered hardwood to pull the planks together since they’re not perfectly straight.

Roll the Floor

Once you’ve laid a section, it’s time to go over them with a flooring roller. This step is important because it ensures the parts are fully adhered to the subfloor and helps eliminate any air pockets. Roll over them in multiple directions, applying even pressure to secure the bond.

If you don’t have a heavy-duty roller, you can rent one from most home improvement stores. It’s an essential tool for this job, so don’t skip this step.

If the base is not perfectly flat, use buckets or other weights to press down and prevent air pockets from forming.

Continue the Process

Keep working in small sections, spreading sealant and laying rows, until you’ve covered the entire floor. Remember to stagger the joints between rows for a more natural look, and use spacers along the walls to maintain that all-important expansion gap.

You can use the oscillating tool to handle door frames.

Let the Flooring Cure

Once all the pieces are down, let them cure properly before walking on the flooring or moving furniture back into the room. Depending on the sealant you used, this could take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific cure time.

It might be tempting to walk on your new floor, but patience is key here. Give it the full recommended curing time to ensure the sealant sets completely and provides a strong, lasting bond.

Finishing Touches

After it has fully cured, you can remove the spacers and install baseboards or quarter-round moldings to cover the expansion gaps. If you’re transitioning to a different type of flooring in an adjacent room, install transition strips to create a seamless look.

That’s all! You’ve successfully installed your engineered wood flooring on the concrete slab, and now your room has a beautiful, durable flooring that’s ready to be enjoyed.

Floating Method

This method is a popular and straightforward option. It’s especially appealing because it doesn’t require adhesive or nails, making it a cleaner and often quicker process.

Tools:

Now let’s go through the steps.

Install the Underlayment

Start by laying down the underlayment over the entire concrete subfloor. The underlayment serves multiple purposes: it provides a moisture barrier, adds a bit of cushion underfoot, and helps reduce noise. Roll it out across the room, making sure to overlap the edges slightly and tape the seams.

Smooth out any wrinkles or folds as you go to ensure the underlayment lies flat, which is essential for a smooth flooring installation.

Plan Your Layout

As with any method, you’ll want to plan your layout before you start installing the pieces. Decide on the direction you want them to run, typically parallel to the longest wall in the room. Use a chalk line to mark a straight starting point, which will help keep your rows even.

Dry-lay a few rows to see how they fit and make any necessary adjustments before committing.

Start With The First Rows

Begin at one corner of the room and start laying your first row along the chalk line. Use spacers between the walls to maintain the expansion gap. For a floating floor, the wooden parts typically have a tongue-and-groove system that allows them to snap together. Angle the tongue of the next plank into the groove of the first plank, then gently tap it into place with a tapping block and hammer.

As you work, check that each row remains straight. If the planks start to drift off course, you could end up with uneven gaps at the walls.

Continue the Process

Continue installing row by row, staggering the joints by at least six inches from one row to the next. This not only looks more natural but also adds strength to the overall floor. When you reach the end of a row, you may need to cut the last plank to fit. Use a miter saw or jigsaw for clean cuts, and don’t forget to leave space for the expansion gap.

If you encounter obstacles like vents, here’s how to deal with them:

• Cut the Opening. Mark the vent and use an oscillating tool to cut out the marked vent space in the floor.

• Prepare the Area. Clean the edges and apply adhesive or filler around the cutout.

• Install the Frame. Fit the wooden frame into the opening and press it securely into place.

• Fit the Vent Cover. Place the vent cover inside the frame, ensuring it sits flush with the floor.

Finish the Work

Once everything is in place, remove the spacers and install your baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gaps around the room. This gives your  flooring a polished, finished look and secures the edges.

Be sure to allow for the floor’s natural expansion and contraction by not fixing the molding too tightly to the flooring itself.

That’s it! The floating method is a fantastic choice for many homeowners because it’s relatively quick to install and can be done with minimal mess. Plus, since it’s not glued down, it offers a bit of flexibility, making it easier to replace individual parts if needed. You might also want to pick the perfect hardwood stain color, but thats another story.

Post-Installation Procedures

After you’ve installed your engineered hardwood flooring, there are a few final steps to ensure everything is in top shape before you start enjoying your new space.

Once the adhesive has cured, take a close look at the entire floor. Check for any gaps between, especially along the edges, and make sure all pieces are securely in place. If you find any issues, address them immediately to avoid bigger problems down the line.

With the flooring fully installed and checked, give it a thorough cleaning. Use a soft broom or vacuum with an engineered wood floor attachment to remove any dust or debris. If needed, you can lightly mop it with a damp (not wet) mop, making sure to use an engineered wood cleaner that’s suitable for your floor’s finish.

Common Issues and How to Avoid Them

Even with the best preparation, things can sometimes go awry during an installation. But don’t worry! Knowing what to watch out for and how to fix problems can save you a lot of headaches. Here are some common issues people encounter when installing engineered wood on concrete and how to avoid them.

Gaps

Nothing’s more frustrating than noticing gaps after all the hard work. These gaps often happen when the pieces aren’t properly aligned or if the subfloor isn’t level.

To prevent this, make sure the subfloor is perfectly level before starting. Also, when laying the planks, take your time to press each one firmly into place, especially when using the glue-down method. If you notice gaps forming, stop and adjust them right away.

If gaps appear after the adhesive has cured, you can sometimes fix them by using a floor filler that matches the color of your flooring. For floating floors, you might be able to tap the pieces back together using a tapping block and hammer or remove the affected row and reinstall it.

Hollow Spots

Hollow spots can be an annoying issue that usually happens when there isn’t enough adhesive coverage.

Make sure you’re getting at least 90% adhesive transfer when laying the planks. Spread the adhesive evenly with a notched trowel and press each plank down firmly. Rolling the floor with a heavy roller also helps eliminate any air pockets.

If you end up with a hollow spot, you can fix it by injecting more adhesive under the plank. There are kits available for this, or you can carefully lift the plank, apply more adhesive, and press it back down.

Buckling or Warping

Buckling or warping usually results from moisture issues or not allowing enough expansion gaps around the room.

Make sure to use a non-water-based adhesive to prevent introducing moisture to the engineered wood. Also, always use spacers to leave proper expansion gaps between the flooring and the walls. This allows the wood to expand and contract naturally with changes in humidity and temperature.

If the floor is already buckling, you might need to remove the baseboards and trim to check the expansion gaps. If the gaps are too tight, you can trim the planks slightly to give them more room. For severe cases, you may need to remove the affected planks and replace them.

Planks Not Locking Together

In a floating method, you might find that some planks aren’t locking together properly, leaving small gaps or uneven edges.

This usually happens if the boards aren’t angled correctly when being clicked together. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the proper angle and method to connect them. Also, check for any debris in the grooves that might be preventing a tight fit.

If the planks aren’t locking, you can try gently tapping them with a tapping block to see if they’ll snap into place. If that doesn’t work, you might need to lift and re-angle the plank before trying again. Worst case, you can remove the problematic plank and replace it with a new one.

If you’d rather avoid these potential pitfalls altogether, consider using our professional installation services. Big Bro Hardwood has years of experience installing engineered hardwood floors on concrete, ensuring a flawless result with no stress. Let us handle the hard work so you can sit back and enjoy your beautiful new floors without any worries!

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Maintenance and Care

Taking care of your new engineered hardwood floor is pretty simple, but it’s important to keep a few things in mind to make sure it stays looking great.

Regularly sweep or vacuum to keep dust and dirt from scratching the surface. When it’s time to clean, use a damp mop with an engineered hardwood-safe cleaner, but be careful not to use too much water. Keep the room’s humidity levels stable to avoid any warping or gaps, and consider using rugs in high-traffic areas to protect the floor. With just a little care, your floor will stay beautiful for years to come!

Conclusion

Thank you for taking the time to read our guide! We hope you found it helpful and that it made your installation process a bit easier.

If you have any questions or need further assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out. At Big Bro Hardwood, we’re here to help with all your flooring needs, whether it’s advice, troubleshooting, or professional installation. We’re just a call away and ready to assist you in making your flooring project a success!

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