Hardwood Floor Sanding and Refinishing: A Complete Guide

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22.08.2024

Reading Time ~ 17 minutes

Whether you’re restoring an old home or just looking to give your space a fresh new feel, refinishing your hardwood floors is a fantastic way to make any room look brand new. It’s not just about appearances — refinishing can extend the life of your floors and even save you a lot of money compared to replacing them.

If your floors have only minor scratches or a dull finish, a simple buff and a fresh coat of varnish might do the trick. But even if they need a complete makeover, don’t worry! Refinishing wood floors is a manageable DIY project that you can tackle with the right guidance. So here we will explain how to refinish your wood floors!

Determine if You Need to Refinish Your Hardwood Floors

Before you dive into refinishing wood flooring, it’s crucial to assess your floor’s condition and figure out if it really needs the full treatment. Sometimes, a simple buff and a fresh coat of finish can do wonders, especially if the scratches are light and the finish is just a bit dull.

However, if your floors have deeper scratches, noticeable wear, or water damage, then hardwood restoration and refinishing might be necessary. A good rule of thumb is to do the “water test”: drip a few drops of water onto the worn area. If the water soaks in quickly, it’s a sign that the layer is worn out and needs attention. If the water beads up or takes time to soak in, a lighter touch-up may be all you need.

But there’s more to it. Identifying the type of wood and the existing finish is just as important. Different types of wood and finishes wear differently. Some finishes, like polyurethane, are more durable, while others might wear down faster. If the floor in your home is a softer wood like pine, it might show wear sooner than harder woods like oak or maple.

It’s also important to know that not all hardwood floors can be refinished the same way. For instance, engineered hardwood, which has a layered structure, shouldn’t be refinished by a DIYer. The top layer of engineered wood is thin, and sanding it down too much can damage the floor in your home beyond repair. Refinishing engineered hardwood should be left to professionals who know how to handle it properly.

Remember, it’s best to refinish before there’s major damage. If you wait too long, you might need to invest in more serious restoration work, which is more labor-intensive and costly.

Preparation for Refinishing Hardwood Floors

Proper preparation is key to achieving a professional-quality finish when refinishing your hardwood floors. First of all, you will need the tools. Make sure you have everything ready so that you don’t need to interrupt your work later.

Sanding Tools

  • Drum or Belt Sander. For large, open areas.
  • Edger Sander. For edges and corners.
  • Sandpaper. 40, 60, 80, and 120-grit for different stages.
  • Pole Sander or Buffer. For buffing the floor.

Floor Sander Edger - a professional tool for sanding hardwood

Repair and Cleaning Tools

  • Small Pry Bar. For removing base molding and quarter-round.
  • Needle-Nosed Pliers. To remove nails and staples.
  • Spackle Knife. For applying wood filler.
  • Wood Filler. Trowel filler for large areas, wood patch for minor repairs.
  • Vacuum. For cleaning up dust between sessions.
  • Tack Cloth. For picking up fine dust after vacuuming.
  • Damp Rags. For wiping down the floor.

Finishing Tools

  • Protective Gear. Respirator mask, eye protection, and gloves.
  • Painter’s Tape. To cover vents and electrical outlets.
  • Plastic Sheeting. To seal off the area and protect the rest of your home.
  • Denatured Alcohol and Water Solution. For “water popping” before staining (optional).
  • Stain Applicator Pads or Lambswool Applicator. For applying stain.
  • Smooth Foam Roller. For applying polyurethane or other finishes.
  • Fine Steel Wool (#2 pads). For buffing between coats of finish.

Clear the Room

Before you begin refinishing your hardwood flooring, the first step is to clear the space entirely. Start by removing all furniture, rugs, and other items from the room. This not only provides you with a clean, open workspace but also prevents dust from settling on your belongings. Next, take down any window treatments, such as curtains or blinds. Sanding can create a lot of dust, and removing these will help keep them clean and avoid extra laundry later on.

To protect the rest of your home, it’s crucial to seal off the area where you’ll be working. If you’re only refinishing one room, use plastic sheeting to cover doorways and any other openings. This will prevent dust from spreading to other parts of your home, saving you from having to clean up a big mess afterward.

Prepare the Floor

With the room cleared, the next step is to prepare the floor itself. Start by removing the base molding and quarter-round trim along the edges of the room. Use a small pry bar to gently lift the molding away from the wall, taking care not to damage it. To make reinstallation easier, label each piece with a pencil as you remove it, noting where it came from.

Once the molding is removed, it’s time to check the home flooring for any nails or staples that may have been left behind. These can damage your equipment, so it’s important to remove them. Use needle-nosed pliers to pull out any exposed nails or staples, or hammer them down so they’re flush with the floor. Taking the time to prepare the floor properly ensures a smooth and even process, setting the stage for a successful job.

Repair and Patch the Floor

Before you start, it’s essential to inspect your flooring for any damage. Walk across the entire surface and take note of any larger holes, cracks, or gaps between the floor boards. These imperfections need to be addressed to ensure a smooth and even result.

For minor damage, like small holes or cracks, a wood patch filler is usually sufficient. You’ll want to use a spackle knife to apply the filler directly into the damaged areas, smoothing it out as you go. If your home floors are more heavily damaged—perhaps with deep gouges, larger cracks, or widespread wear—a trowel filler is the better option. This type of filler is thinner and can be spread over large areas, helping to cover multiple imperfections at once.

If your flooring is heavily damaged it is better to use the help of a professional. Do not refinish greatly damaged wood floors.

After applying the filler, patience is key. Allow it to dry completely, following the manufacturer’s instructions. This drying period is crucial because sanding or applying a finish too early can ruin the repairs and create more work down the line.

Repair

Life happens, and sometimes your beautiful hardwood floors take a hit.  But before you consider replacing them entirely, Big Bro Hardwood can help you restore them precisely.
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Clean the Floor

Once the repairs are dry, it’s time to give your flooring a thorough cleaning. Start by vacuuming the entire area to remove dust, debris, and any loose particles left from the repair process. Pay special attention to the edges and corners, where dust tends to accumulate.

After vacuuming, it’s important to go over the floor with a damp rag. This step helps pick up any fine dust that the vacuum might have missed. Use a clean, slightly damp cloth and wipe down the floor methodically, working in sections to ensure you cover the entire surface. Make sure to allow your home floor to dry completely before you proceed. Any lingering moisture can interfere with sanding and lead to an uneven layer.

Protect Your Home

Sanding floors is a dusty business, so taking steps to protect the rest of your house is a must. Start by covering any floor vents and electrical outlets with painter’s tape and plastic sheeting. This simple step prevents dust from getting into your home’s ductwork and electrical system, saving you from a massive clean-up job later.

Hardwood sanding process with all furniture covered

Additionally, ensure the room you’re working in is well-ventilated. Some products, particularly those that are oil-based, can emit strong fumes. Open windows and set up fans to help circulate fresh air.

By thoroughly repairing, cleaning, and protecting your workspace, you’ll create the perfect foundation for a smooth and successful process. Skipping or rushing through these steps can lead to complications later, so it’s worth taking the time to do it right.

Safety First

Refinishing hardwood floors can expose you to dust, fumes, and physical hazards, so it’s important to prioritize safety. Sanding creates a lot of fine dust, which can irritate your lungs and eyes, while fumes from stains and finishes can be harmful if inhaled.

To protect yourself, always wear a respirator mask to filter out dust and fumes. Protective eyewear is essential to shield your eyes from dust and debris. Additionally, use gloves to protect your hands from chemicals and hearing protection if you’re sensitive to the noise of machines. Proper ventilation is also crucial—keep windows open and use fans to circulate air.

Sanding Your Hardwood Floors

Now that we’ve prepared the room and the flooring is ready, it’s time to start sanding. It is a critical step, as it removes the old finish and smooths out any imperfections, setting the stage for a beautiful, even surface.

Choosing Your Equipment: Drum or Belt Sander?

When it comes to sanding wood floors, the main tool you’ll be using is either a drum sander or a belt sander. Both are effective, but they have some differences that might influence your choice.

Drum Sanders. This is a powerful machine that uses a rotating drum wrapped in sandpaper to sand the floor. It’s highly effective at removing old layers and leveling uneven surfaces. However, it can be tricky to control, especially for beginners. If not handled correctly, a drum sander can create gouges or dips in the floor, so it requires careful attention.

A professional drum hardwood sander in action

Belt Sanders. A belt sander, on the other hand, is generally easier to control and slightly less aggressive than a drum sander. It uses a continuous loop of sandpaper (the belt) to sand the floor. While it may take a little longer to achieve the same results as a drum sander, it’s more forgiving and less likely to damage the floor.

Which one to choose? If you’re new to wood floor sanding, a belt sander might be the safer option because of its ease of use. However, if you’re confident in your ability to handle equipment and need to tackle significant wear or an uneven surface, a drum device will get the job done faster.

How to Sand the Hardwood Floor

The first step is to begin with coarse-grit sandpaper, usually 40-grit. This grit is designed to remove the old finish and tackle any deep scratches or stains. As you sand, it’s crucial to move the sander in the direction of the wood grain. This helps avoid creating cross-grain scratches, which can be difficult to remove later.

Hardwood sanding with lots of specific tools involved

When using a drum or belt sander, always start the machine before you begin moving it. This ensures that the sander is fully engaged when it touches the floor. As you move forward, keep a steady pace, and make sure to lift the sander before you stop moving to avoid any unwanted gouges in the wood. Work in straight, overlapping lines, ensuring each pass slightly covers the previous one. This technique will help you achieve an even sand across the entire floor.

Always keep the sander in motion while it’s on the flooring to avoid uneven sanding.

Next, you’ll need to address the edges of the room, which the large sander can’t reach. For this, use an edger sander with the same 40-grit sandpaper. Carefully sand along the perimeter of the room, following the grain of the wood to maintain consistency with the main area.

Rotary floor sander for edges

Sandpaper wears out quickly, especially during the initial stages. Check and replace it regularly.

After completing the initial coarse sanding, it’s time to progress to medium grit sandpaper, such as 60 or 80-grit. This stage smooths out the rough surface left by the coarser grit. Continue in the same direction as the grain, ensuring you vacuum the floor between each stage. This helps to keep the surface clean and free of debris.

Buffing the Floor

Once you’ve completed the initial sanding with coarse and medium grits, it’s time to move on to buffing the floor. Buffing is done with fine grit sandpaper, typically 120-grit. This step will make that ultra-smooth finish that prepares the wood for staining. When buffing, pay particular attention to the corners and edges, ensuring they are as smooth as the rest of the floor.

Cleaning Up

After buffing, thoroughly clean the flooring to remove all the dust and debris that has accumulated during the process. Start by vacuuming the entire surface, making sure to get into the corners and along the edges where dust can collect. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to avoid scratching the freshly sanded wood.

Once vacuuming is complete, go over the floor with a tack cloth. This sticky cloth will pick up any remaining fine dust that the vacuum may have missed so that the floor is completely clean.

With the flooring now cleaned and perfectly prepared, you’re ready to move on to the next stage.

Perfectly sanded floor ready for the next step

Staining the Floor

Now that your flooring is beautifully sanded and cleaned, it’s time to think about adding color. Staining is a fantastic way to enhance the natural beauty of your wood or give it a completely new look. If you’re unsure about what color to choose, we have a detailed article on how to pick the perfect stain color for your flooring.

There are several types of stains.

  • Oil-Based Stains. A popular choice for hardwood flooring because they penetrate deeply into the wood, providing a rich, vibrant color. They tend to have a longer drying time, which allows for a more even application and gives you more working time to blend the stain. However, they do emit strong fumes and require good ventilation during application.
  • Water-Based Stains. These are becoming increasingly popular due to their low odor and quick drying time. Water-based stains are easier to clean up and are more environmentally friendly. They don’t penetrate as deeply as oil-based stains, which can result in a more uniform color, but they may require more careful application to avoid lap marks.
  • Gel Stains. Those are thicker and sit on top of the wood rather than penetrating it deeply. This makes them a good option for achieving an even color, especially on woods that tend to blotch, like pine. Gel stains can be a bit trickier to apply evenly, so they require a bit more attention during application.
  • Alcohol-Based Stains. These stains dry very quickly and are often used for touch-ups or smaller projects. They can be tricky to apply on large surfaces due to their fast drying time, which can lead to uneven coloring if not handled carefully.
  • Varnish Stains. A combination of stain and finish, varnish stains are applied in one step, which can save time. However, they offer less control over the final appearance since the color and finish are applied simultaneously.

Choosing and Testing Your Stain

Before committing to a stain, it’s wise to test a small, inconspicuous area of the floor. Stains can look different depending on the type of wood and how it absorbs the color. Apply a small amount of stain to a test spot and let it dry completely. This will give you a true sense of how the color will look across the entire floor. If you’re happy with the test spot, you’re ready to move on. If not, don’t hesitate to try a few more samples until you find the perfect shade.

How to Apply the Stain

When you’re ready to stain, make sure your workspace is well-ventilated, as stains can emit strong fumes. Open windows and use fans to keep the air circulating. Start by stirring the stain thoroughly to ensure the color is even. Using a stain applicator pad or a clean, lint-free cloth, dip it into the stain and apply it to the floor in long, even strokes.

Applying stain on hardwood floors

Always apply the stain in the direction of the wood grain to make sure the stain penetrates evenly.

Apply the stain in manageable sections, typically 3 to 4 feet at a time, to avoid any overlap marks.

Be sure to wipe away any excess stain with a clean cloth as you go, as leaving excess stain on the surface can result in a blotchy finish.

Continue this process across the entire floor, paying careful attention to blend the edges where one section meets another.

Hardwood finish application process in a house

Drying and Second Coats

Once you’ve covered the entire floor, allow the stain to dry completely. Drying times can vary based on the type of stain and the humidity in your environment, but most stains require at least 24 hours to dry. If you desire a deeper color, you can apply a second coat following the same process. Just be sure the first coat is fully dry before starting the next.

Stained hardwood floor ready for finish application

Refinishing Your Wood Floors

We’re almost done—just one more step left to bring your hardwood floors back to life! After all the hard work of sanding and staining, it’s time to apply the finish. It not only protects your floors but also enhances their natural beauty, giving them that final touch of elegance.

Types of Finish

  • Oil-Based Polyurethane. This one is known for its durability and gives the wood a warm, amber hue that deepens over time. It’s a great choice for high-traffic areas due to its resilience. However, it has a longer drying time (about 24 hours between coats) and emits strong fumes during application. Over time, oil-based polyurethane can yellow, which adds to its amber glow but may not be suitable for all wood types or preferences.
  • Water-Based Polyurethane. This option is favored for its fast drying time (4-6 hours between coats) and clear, non-yellowing result. It’s less odorous and has lower VOC emissions, making it more environmentally friendly and suitable for indoor projects. While slightly less durable than oil-based polyurethane, it still offers good protection and is ideal if you want to maintain the natural color of your wood without the amber tint. Both water-based and oil-based products have the same cost, which varies depending on the brand.
  • Natural Oil Finishes (e.g., Tung Oil). These finishes penetrate deep into the wood, enhancing its natural grain and providing a soft, matte surface. They are eco-friendly and give the wood a more natural appearance. However, they offer less protection against water and wear and require regular maintenance, including reapplication every few years to maintain the finish.
  • Wax. Wax provides a rich, low-sheen product that’s great for historic homes or achieving a vintage look. It’s labor-intensive to apply, as it needs to be buffed into the wood, and offers less durability than polyurethane finishes. Waxed floors require frequent reapplication and careful maintenance to keep them looking their best.
  • Varnish. Varnish is tough, water-resistant, and available in a range of sheens from matte to glossy. It’s known for being durable and protective, but it can take longer to dry and may be more challenging to apply evenly. Varnish can also yellow over time, similar to oil-based polyurethane.

The Process of Finishing the Floors

With the decision is made, it’s time to bring all your hard work to fruition by applying the product to the floor.

Start by gently stirring the finish to ensure it’s well-mixed. Avoid shaking the container, as this can create bubbles that will transfer to your floor. Using a high-quality brush or a foam roller, apply the first coat. Work in long, even strokes, starting from the farthest corner of the room and moving toward the exit. It’s essential to follow the direction of the wood grain to maintain consistency and avoid unsightly streaks. Thin, even coats are key, as they dry more smoothly and are less likely to have imperfections.

Applying finish on hardwood floors

Once the first coat is applied, allow it to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For oil-based polyurethane, this might take up to 24 hours, while water-based finishes typically dry within 4 to 6 hours. Proper ventilation is important during this stage, as it helps speed up the drying process and reduces the concentration of fumes in the room.

After the initial coat has dried, it’s important to lightly buff the surface. This step removes any small imperfections and helps the subsequent coats adhere better. Use fine steel wool or a sanding screen for this purpose. Once buffing is complete, thoroughly vacuum the floor to remove all the dust generated during the process, then wipe it down again with a tack cloth.

The process of applying and buffing should be repeated for at least two more coats, depending on the level of durability you desire. With each coat, the protection increases, giving the floor a resilient and long-lasting surface.

Remember to allow each coat to dry completely and to buff the flooring in between applications.

After the final coat is applied, the finish must be allowed to cure fully. Even though the floor may feel dry to the touch, it still needs time to cure fully. For water-based polyurethane, this usually takes about 48 to 72 hours, while oil-based products can take up to a week. During this period, avoid placing any furniture or rugs on the floor, and minimize foot traffic to allow it to harden properly.

Care About Your Refinished Hardwood Floors

So, we’re done, and your floor looks incredible! But what now? How do you make sure your beautifully refinished hardwood floors stay looking pristine for years to come? Proper care is key to maintaining that fresh, new appearance and ensuring the longevity of your floors.

Final result of hardwood sanding and refinishing

Clean Regularly but Gently

Once the floor is ready for regular use, it’s crucial to clean it regularly but gently. Dust and dirt can act like sandpaper, scratching the finish if left unchecked. Sweep or vacuum with a soft-bristle attachment to keep your floors clean. When mopping, use a damp microfiber mop and a hardwood floor cleaner, steering clear of harsh chemicals and excessive water, which can damage the finish over time.

Protect from Furniture Scratches

Furniture can be one of the biggest threats to your newly refinished wood floors. Place felt pads under the legs of chairs, tables, and other furniture to prevent scratches when they are moved. Be especially cautious when moving heavy furniture — consider placing a protective mat or blanket down first to avoid any potential damage.

Use Area Rugs Wisely

Area rugs are a great way to protect high-traffic areas but choose them wisely. Use rugs with non-slip backings that won’t harm the finish, and avoid rubber-backed rugs, which can trap moisture and cause discoloration. Rugs near entrances can also help catch dirt before it gets tracked across your flooring.

Control the Indoor Environment

Hardwood floors can be sensitive to changes in humidity. To prevent the wood from expanding or contracting, try to maintain a consistent indoor climate. Use a humidifier in the winter and a dehumidifier in the summer if necessary to keep humidity levels stable.

Recoat Periodically

To extend the life of your floor’s finish, consider recoating every few years, especially in areas of high usage. This involves lightly sanding the surface and applying a fresh coat of finish, which can keep your floors looking new and protected without the need for a full refinish.

Address Spills Immediately

Accidents happen, so it’s important to clean up spills immediately to prevent water damage or staining. Blot the spill with a soft cloth rather than wiping it, which can spread the liquid.

Troubleshooting Common Issues 

Problems can occur at any stage, even with the best preparation. Based on our experience, here are some common issues you might encounter and how to solve them.

Marks or Uneven Sanding

During sanding, you might notice marks or uneven areas on the floor. This typically happens if the sander is not kept in constant motion or if too much pressure is applied. To fix this, resand the affected area using finer grit sandpaper, keeping the sander moving at a steady pace and applying even pressure.

Stain Looks Blotchy

If the stain appears blotchy or uneven, it could be due to uneven sanding or the wood absorbing the stain unevenly. Lightly sand the blotchy areas with fine-grit sandpaper and reapply the stain. To prevent blotchiness, always sand the floor thoroughly, remove all dust before staining, and apply the stain evenly, wiping off any excess.

Dust in the Finish

Dust particles can often get trapped, creating a rough texture on the surface. If this happens, let the surface dry completely, then lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper or steel wool. Be sure to clean the flooring thoroughly before applying another coat, and take steps to minimize dust in the room, such as vacuuming and wiping down surfaces beforehand.

Peeling Finish

In some cases, the finish might start peeling or flaking off shortly after it’s applied. This usually occurs if the finish was applied over a dirty surface or if the previous finish wasn’t completely removed. The solution involves stripping the affected area, sanding it down, and thoroughly cleaning the surface before reapplying the finish.

White Spots or Cloudiness

Another issue that can arise is the appearance of white spots or cloudiness in the finish. This is often due to moisture getting trapped under the finishing or applying it in a high-humidity environment. Allow the area to dry completely, and if the cloudiness doesn’t clear, you may need to sand down the affected spot and reapply the coat under better conditions.

Bubbles

Sometimes, bubbles may appear in the finish after application. This often happens if the coat is applied too quickly or has been shaken before use. To fix this, allow the surface to dry, then lightly sand the area with fine steel wool and reapply a thin coat, taking care to work slowly and avoid creating new bubbles.

Finish Taking Too Long to Dry

If you find that the finish is taking much longer to dry than expected, it could be due to high humidity, low temperatures, or applying too thick a coat. Improve ventilation in the room, raise the temperature slightly, and ensure that future coats are applied more thinly. If the finish remains tacky after a couple of days, you might need to remove it and start again.

When You Need Professional Help

Refinishing hardwood floors is more than just a weekend DIY project—it’s a complex and labor-intensive process that demands both skill and precision. The tasks involved, from carefully sanding every inch of the floor to applying multiple coats of stain and finish, can quickly become overwhelming. The tools required are specialized and can be difficult to handle without experience, and even a small mistake can lead to costly repairs or unsatisfactory results.

If you’re feeling unsure about tackling this project on your own, it might be a good idea to consider calling in professionals. Big Bro Hardwood is here to help. As a family-founded business, we understand the importance of quality and care. We treat every floor as if it were our own, ensuring that the results are nothing short of perfect. Our professional hardwood floor sanding and refinishing services are designed to take the burden off your shoulders, delivering a beautiful, durable finish that will stand the test of time.

But our commitment doesn’t end with the refinishing process. We also provide expert aftercare advice to help you maintain your floors and keep them looking stunning for years to come. So, if you’re not ready to take on the challenge yourself, let Big Bro Hardwood do the hard work for you. We’re here to ensure your floors look their absolute best, with the care and attention they deserve.

Conclusion

We’ve walked you through everything it takes to sand and refinish your hardwood floors, from preparation to the final coat. It’s a challenging but rewarding process that can transform your space. We hope this guide helps you achieve beautiful, lasting results. And remember, if the task feels too overwhelming, Big Bro Hardwood is always here to provide professional assistance and ensure your floors look their very best.

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Faq

How often should I refinish my hardwood floors?

The frequency depends on the level of foot traffic and the type of finish used. Generally, high-traffic areas might need it every 6-9 years, while less-used areas could last 15 years or more. Regular maintenance, such as cleaning and occasional recoating, can extend the time between full work.

Can I refinish engineered hardwood floors?

It depends on the thickness of the top veneer layer. Engineered hardwood with a thick veneer (at least 2-3mm) can be sanded and refinished once or twice. However, thinner veneers may only withstand light buffing or screening, so it’s best to consult a professional before attempting to refinish engineered hardwood.

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